Por qué esta portada de 'Vanity Fair' ha hecho historia
Ya iba siendo hora.
“Toda mi vida ha sido una protesta”. Con esta declaración de intenciones se presenta Viola Davis en el último número de Vanity Fair. La actriz ha defendido durante toda su carrera la igualdad de oportunidades para los actores negros y denunciado el racismo de la industria del cine.
Ahora Davis ha vuelto a hacer historia como la protagonista de la primera portada de la revista estadounidense hecha por un fotógrafo negro: Dario Calmese. El resultado, muy aplaudido por los lectores, no puede ser más poderoso.
El fotógrafo, que había trabajado con la publicación en otras ocasiones, ha agradecido a la revista y a Davis la oportunidad compartiendo la imagen en Instagram con un pie de foto similar a la idea de la portada: “Bienvenidos a mi protesta”.
Estados Unidos vive desde la muerte de George Floyd la mayor ola de indignación contra el racismo desde hace años y, en ese contexto, Calmese ha querido dedicar la portada a todas las mujeres negras.
“Gracias a todas las mujeres negras que se han sentido invisibles a pesar de estar en la primera línea de batalla. Os vemos. Sois queridas, sois poderosas y sois bellas. Esto es para vosotras”, escribió el fotógrafo en el post. Calmese habló con el diario The New York Times sobre la portada como una forma de protesta y de intentar reescribir la narrativa que se utiliza habitualmente para describir a los afroamericanos en las revistas de este tipo.
El número al completo es una reivindicación, desde la portada hasta la carta de la directora, Radhika Jones. “No estamos obligados a continuar con la jerarquía cultural que hemos heredado”, escribe la editora.
Una ausencia habitual
Aprovechando la ola de disturbios, son muchos los que han pedido a la industria de la moda y al grupo editorial Condé Nast que mejoren su posición contra el racismo y apuesten por la diversidad. Que hayan tenido que pasar cuatro décadas para que Vanity Fair trabaje con un fotógrafo negro para su portada es síntoma del camino que queda por recorrer.
En ese sentido, la directora creativa de Condé Nast y directora de Vogue, Anna Wintour, está en el punto de mira después de que varios exempleados hayan denunciado abusos a trabajadores negros y salarios más bajos en comparación con los compañeros blancos.
En cuanto a la contratación de fotógrafos racializados en Vogue, la situación es similar a la Vanity Fair. Hubo que esperar hasta septiembre de 2018 para que la portada fuera fotografiada por un afroamericano, y todo porque Beyoncé, la protagonista del número, se empeñó en contratar a Tyler Mitchell.
Un coche arde en Atlanta en las protestas por el asesinato de George Floyd.
Queman un coche de la Policía en Atlanta.
Protestas en Charlotte (Carolina del Norte).
La Policía carga contra los manifestantes en Detroit (Michigan).
Un edificio destrozado en Oakland (California)
Un grupo de manifestantes en una protesta en Nueva York, Estados Unidos, el 29 de mayo de 2020 en rechazo a la muerte bajo la custodia policial del afroamericano George Floyd.
Un grupo de manifestantes participa en la quema de una comisaría en Minneapolis.
Protestas en Minneapolis por la muerte de un afroamericano a manos de la policía.
Protestas en Minneapolis por la muerte de un afroamericano a manos de la policía.
Demonstrators pray during a march, Sunday, May 31, 2020, in Atlanta. Protests continued following the death of George Floyd, who died after being restrained by Minneapolis police officers on May 25. (AP Photo/Mike Stewart)
A protester tries to talk the police back amid tear gas in downtown Atlanta, Sunday, May 31, 2020. Protests continue across the country over the death of George Floyd, a black man who died after being restrained by Minneapolis police officers on...
Police hold off protesters during a solidarity rally for George Floyd, Sunday, May 31, 2020, in the Brooklyn borough of New York. Protests were held throughout the city over the death of Floyd, a black man in police custody in Minneapolis who di...
A police officer shouts to members of the media while trying to clear the streets of demonstrators in Memphis, Tennessee, early Monday, June 1, 2020, protesting the death of George Floyd who died in Minneapolis police custody May 25, 2020. (Da...
Manifestantes encienden una hoguera durante una protesta por la muerte de George Floyd el domingo 31 de mayo 2020, cerca de la Casa Blanca, en Washington.
People break into a smoke shop on Monday, June 1, 2020, in New York. Protests were held throughout the city over the death of George Floyd, a black man in police custody in Minneapolis who died after being restrained by police officers on Memori...
People run out of a smoke shop that they broke into as police arrive on the scene on Monday, June 1, 2020, in New York. Protests were held throughout the city over the death of George Floyd, a black man in police custody in Minneapolis who died ...
Protestors celebrate after eluding authorities and stopping traffic along Interstate 55 in Memphis, Tennessee, Sunday, May 31, 2020, during a protest over the death of George Floyd on May 25. (Patrick Lantrip/Daily Memphian via AP)
Police stop a driver in the SoHo shopping district Sunday, May 31, 2020, in New York. Protests were held throughout the city over the death of George Floyd, who died May 25 after he was pinned at the neck by a Minneapolis police officer. (AP Pho...
Arrested protesters are loaded onto a transport bus by police on South Washington Street, Sunday, May 31, 2020, in Minneapolis. Protests continued following the death of George Floyd, who died after being restrained by Minneapolis police officer...
Demonstrators march, Sunday, May 31, 2020, in Atlanta. Protests continued following the death of George Floyd, who died after being restrained by Minneapolis police officers on May 25. (AP Photo/Brynn Anderson)
Motorists are ordered to the ground from their vehicle by police during a protest on South Washington Street, Sunday, May 31, 2020, in Minneapolis. Protests continued following the death of George Floyd, who died after being restrained by Minnea...
A white man and a black man clasp hands as police in the background guard the old state capitol in Raleigh, N.C., on Monday, June 1, 2020. It was the second day of protests in the North Carolina capital following the death of Minnesotan George F...
A protester runs through tear gas on the Las Vegas Strip on Sunday, May 31, 2020, in Las Vegas, during demonstrations over the death of George Floyd, who died May 25 after he was pinned at the neck by a Minneapolis police officer. (AP Photo/Stev...
A brick protrudes from a shattered window in downtown Raleigh, N.C., on Monday, June 1, 2020. It was the second day of protests in the North Carolina capital following the death of Minnesotan George Floyd while in police custody. (AP Photo/Allen...
A protester confronts police during a rally in downtown Lexington, Ky., against the deaths of George Floyd and Breonna Taylor on Sunday, May 31, 2020. (Ryan C. Hermens/Lexington Herald-Leader via AP)
Motorists are ordered to the ground from their vehicle by police during a protest on South Washington Street, Sunday, May 31, 2020, in Minneapolis. Protests continued following the death of George Floyd, who died after being restrained by Minnea...
A woman walks past a store boarded up with a message as protests over the death of George Floyd continue Sunday, May 31, 2020, in Los Angeles. Armed National Guard soldiers lined the steps of Los Angeles City Hall, and cities across California d...
Nick Brentley demonstrates in San Francisco on Sunday, May 31, 2020, to protest the death of George Floyd, who died after being restrained by Minneapolis police officers on May 25. (AP Photo/Noah Berger)
CHARLOTTE, USA - MAY 31: Following the death of George Floyd in Minneapolis, protest in downtown Charlotte turn violent in NC, United States on May 31, 2020 (Photo by Peter Zay/Anadolu Agency via Getty Images)
NEW YORK, USA - JUNE 1: People gather during a protest held against police killing of George Floyd in Minneapolis in New York, United States on June 1, 2020. (Photo by Mostafa Bassim/Anadolu Agency via Getty Images)
AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND - JUNE 01: (This image has been converted to black and white.) Protestors march down Queen Street on June 01, 2020 in Auckland, New Zealand. The rally was organised in solidarity with protests across the United States follo...
VANCOUVER, BC - MAY 31: Thousands attend a protest against racism and police brutality at the Vancouver Art Gallery on May 31, 2020 in Vancouver, Canada. (Photo by Mert Alper Dervis/Anadolu Agency via Getty Images)
AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND - JUNE 01: (This image has been converted to black and white.) Protestors march down Queen Street on June 01, 2020 in Auckland, New Zealand. The rally was organised in solidarity with protests across the United States follo...
VANCOUVER, BC - MAY 31: Thousands attend a protest against racism and police brutality at the Vancouver Art Gallery on May 31, 2020 in Vancouver, Canada. (Photo by Mert Alper Dervis/Anadolu Agency via Getty Images)
AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND - JUNE 01: Protestors march down Queen Street on June 01, 2020 in Auckland, New Zealand. The rally was organised in solidarity with protests across the United States following the killing of an unarmed black man George Floy...
AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND - JUNE 01: UFC fighter Israel Adesanya joins in the protest down Queen Street on June 01, 2020 in Auckland, New Zealand. The rally was organised in solidarity with protests across the United States following the killing of ...
AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND - JUNE 01: A protestor marches down Queen Street on June 01, 2020 in Auckland, New Zealand. The rally was organised in solidarity with protests across the United States following the killing of an unarmed black man George F...
AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND - JUNE 01: Protestors march down Queen Street on June 01, 2020 in Auckland, New Zealand. The rally was organised in solidarity with protests across the United States following the killing of an unarmed black man George Floy...
AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND - JUNE 01: Protestors march down Queen Street on June 01, 2020 in Auckland, New Zealand. The rally was organised in solidarity with protests across the United States following the killing of an unarmed black man George Floy...
VANCOUVER, BC - MAY 31: Thousands attend a protest against racism and police brutality at the Vancouver Art Gallery on May 31, 2020 in Vancouver, Canada. (Photo by Mert Alper Dervis/Anadolu Agency via Getty Images)
Motorists are ordered to the ground from their vehicle by police during a protest on South Washington Street, Sunday, May 31, 2020, in Minneapolis. Protests continued following the death of George Floyd, who died after being restrained by Minnea...
LONDON, ENGLAND - JUNE 01: Protesters take part in a 'Black Lives Matter' demonstration on June 01, 2020 in London, England. Protests and riots continue across American following the death of George Floyd, who died after being restrained by Minn...
A protester reacts after being hit by pepper spray from police as their group of demonstrators are detained prior to arrest at a gas station on South Washington Street, Sunday, May 31, 2020, in Minneapolis. Protests continued sparked by the deat...
A protester reacts after being hit by crowd dispersal rounds as a group of demonstrators are detained prior to arrest at a gas station on South Washington Street, Sunday, May 31, 2020, in Minneapolis. Protests continued sparked by the death of G...
EDITORS NOTE: Graphic content / A worker removes graffiti near the White House after a third night of violent protests over the death of George Floyd June 1, 2020, in Washington, DC. - Police fired tear gas outside the White House late Sunday as...
LONDON, ENGLAND - JUNE 01: Protesters take part in a 'Black Lives Matter' demonstration on June 01, 2020 in London, England. Protests and riots continue across American following the death of George Floyd, who died after being restrained by Minn...
People remove graffiti near the White House after a third night of violent protests over the death of George Floyd on June 1, 2020, in Washington, DC. - Police fired tear gas outside the White House late Sunday as anti-racism protestors again to...
The United States of America will be designating ANTIFA as a Terrorist Organization.
— Donald J. Trump (@realDonaldTrump) May 31, 2020
Uxía Prieto es redactora de Life en El HuffPost, en Madrid. Escribe sobre cultura, moda o estilo de vida. Es graduada en Periodismo por la Universidad de Santiago de Compostela y posteriormente estudió el Máster en Periodismo Cultural de la Universidad CEU San Pablo. Puedes contactar con ella escribiendo a: uxia.prieto@huffpost.es